My family and I departed from San Diego late Sunday night -- transferred at London Heathrow (which was a security line nightmare) -- and then straight to Rome (with Hugh Grant on our flight). We just finished 2 full days in Rome (3 nights) -- and we did it right. Can’t imagine seeing or experiencing more in such a short period of time. And felt that it was just the right amount of time. Doesn’t hurt that my wife, Luisa, was born in Milan -- speaks fluent Italian -- and that we have close family living in Rome that helped introduce us to some key “finds.” It also didn’t hurt that we had amazing weather -- including temps of about 72 degrees -- the entire time. Our insights (and “finds”) likely can help you optimize your trip to Rome.
Here are my recommendations for a full Roman experience in two days.
First, where to stay. I recommend the Trastevere area of Rome -- that is where the cool and most lively (and less tourist-y) restaurants and nightlife is. Trastevere is located in an area that is conveniently located amid most of the sites and areas you want to see. We stayed there in a nice cost-effective hotel the WorldHotel Ripa Roma) -- where a nice buffet breakfast was included (which was a plus for this hungry famiglia).
DAY 1
Start off at the Colosseum -- yes, the Colosseum (there we are in the picture on the left). Of course it is packed with tourists. Of course you will be accosted by a few brutus-like (and likely drunk) Romans dressed up like gladiators. But the Colosseum also is an absolute “can’t miss” experience. Our kids -- Hunter (almost 14) and Luca (almost 11) -- needed to see it (we have been to Rome several times previously, but they were too young at the time to really experience it). This time we did. We also did the unthinkable (for Luisa and me) -- we took an official guided 1.25 hour guided tour -- and it was outstanding. Absolutely the right way to go. Yes, we paid a little more. But it was well worth it. First, we bypassed the entire more than 1-hour line to get in. And, second, we learned -- really learned -- about the Romans, how they built the Colosseum (from the years 72-80 AD), and what life was like in the Colosseum. Without such context, a site visit would be “hollow.” Yes, you would know that the building was an incredible feat of engineering. But, that’s about it. Take the tour. Trust me. But, make sure it is an official one.
Then, off to Piazza Navona for a late lunch. Another site packed with tourists, but for good reason. It is perhaps THE quintessential Roman square. Soak it up (along with some pizza and wine). And then leave.
A short walking distance from Piazza Navona stands the Pantheon -- the massive stone dome of which continues to amaze every time I see it. It is another “must see.” Continuing onward, stop -- if you must (we did, but don’t think you need to) -- at the famous Trevi Fountain in Trevi Square. Toss your coins in and then be thankful that your wishes of walking away from the throngs have come true.
Continue your walking tour to Piazza di Spagna and the famous Spanish Steps -- and go shopping along the way (we did). Once you get there, sit down, soak it up, and simply enjoy the people and energy of the place. Think of it as the Montmarte/Sacre Couer area of Rome. From the very top of the steps we experienced an incredible sunset. (There we are on the right -- on the Steps - taking a group “selfie” with my iPhone 5; below is that incredible sunset from the top).
We didn’t end the evening there though. We returned to our hotel briefly to re-group, and then off to a new up-and-coming trendy area near Trastevere in which there is a new Eataly (the incredible Italian mega-market that now has a global presence -- in New York, Japan, elsewhere). We first ate at a new hot spot restaurant nearby with our close relatives (sadly, I don’t recall the restaurant’s name), and then we roamed the cavernous confines of Eataly (all five levels of it). We finished the night with gelatto, still being served at midnight. At that point (pictured below with Luisa’s aunt Dianna), we were virtually alone.
THAT is a complete day my friends. An amazing day. Follow that itinerary and you will be very very happy. And, shockingly, you won’t feel rushed. We took our time. Trust me, we ate and engaged. It was classic.DAY 2
Off to St. Peter’s Square in Vatican City to kick off yet another beautiful day in Rome. Our timing was off, however, because we arrived at the Square literally as the Pope’s Wednesday mass for the masses had ended. Yes, that would have been memorable, but we didn’t dwell on it. We walked the grounds on this beautiful day, and then we were off to meet my father-in-law for lunch near Piazza Navona.
We walked the entire way (not too long), and THAT is the best way to experience Rome. Take the winding and incredibly narrow alley ways toward the general destination location -- but feel free to wind in and out. We did. And, that was some of our best “finding” of restaurants. We ultimately made it to Navona and the adjacent square where we met Aldo, but walked back to one of those authentic restaurants frequented by the locals in one of those winding streets that we had walked. Another classic experience -- a relaxed lunch punctuated by a bottle of wine. The only way to go.
Ultimately, we returned to Eataly for some amazing cappuccino -- and to relax some more. Do we then return to the hotel to rest before dinner? Of course not. And, don’t do it! Instead, do as we did. Go to Trastevere -- go directly to Piazza Santa Maria. (That is where we are in the picture on the right in another group “selfie” that defines our mood as we experienced all of the sites and sounds around us). And then stay there. Wander there. People watch there. Experience the kitsch there. Experience the beauty there. Eat there. Drink there. Enjoy there. We stayed there for about 3 hours -- and enjoyed every relaxed minute of it (including separate card readings for our two kids in which their full futures were revealed!). (That experience is captured in the picture below). THESE moments in Trastevere were perhaps THE quintessential moments of our trip.
Two full days. Saw much. Experienced more. Ate too much. Savored it.
Now, our train is moving ever-closer to Milan. Time to close the laptop and enjoy the beautiful scenery.
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